blog

Finale

Finale

Having performed in Lüneburg, all I needed to do was to get home. In the end, this was easier said than done as a strike by the German rail carrier Deutsche Bahn meant going by car to Düsseldorf, and then cycling the last 45km to Köln. The weather was fabulous, and,...

Lüneburg

Lüneburg

I don't know from which direction Bach and Erdmann will have approached St Michaelis, their final destination, when they arrived in Luuneburg. It lies at the western edge of the town, and the view in the image above shows one possible approach - a street looking much...

Ebstorf to Lüneburg

Ebstorf to Lüneburg

The journey from Ebstorf to Lüneburg was short at just 27km and the weather was glorious, making up for the long wet journeys in the days before. Most of the journey is a cycle track alongside the road, which is pleasant if there is little traffic. The last bit goes...

Ebstorf

Ebstorf

 Whether Bach and his friend Georg Erdmann chose to travel via Celle or via Hankensbüttel, both routes meet in Ebstorf.  Ebstorf boasts a convent which was founded in the 12th century, and the buildings you can see in the images date from the 14th century. It is a...

Hankensbüttel

Hankensbüttel

It's not clear which route Bach might have taken from Braunschweig to Ebstorf. One route, the one I chose, follows the old trade route that joined the cities of the Hanseatic League, and passes through Hankensbüttel, which was a convenient place for me to spend the...

Braunschweig

Braunschweig

The journey to Braunschweig was very very wet. Braunschweig's old town is quite pretty though, and the sun came out for a bit when I arrived, interspersed with torrential showers (see the second image). The cathedral is beautiful and has a phenomenal acoustic. It was...

Wernigerode

Wernigerode

Today was the first day I didn't cycle, and it was great to have a break! This morning I streamed the A minor sonata from St Johannis, which is the oldest church in the city, dating from the 12th century. Bach could certainly have seen it from the outside. Maybe he...

Zorge to Wernigerode

Zorge to Wernigerode

My host in Zorge felt I should take the first 5km of this trip extremely seriously, as apparently they count as the steepest bike climb in the whole of Germany. One part of the climb has an incline of 16%, and I discovered that at about 12% the front wheel of the bike...

Mühlhausen to Zorge

Mühlhausen to Zorge

This leg of the journey was incredibly tough. Apparently there were no scenic cycle routes, so most of the time I was on the road, which was tiring because of the traffic. Although on the elevation profile it's the first 15km which look the most daunting - and I did...

Mühlhausen

Mühlhausen

My second stream was on 23rd August, in the evening of the wet 50km bike ride. This wasn't such a great idea, as it turned out, it's more relaxed if you have a night's rest in between (note to self...) Bach was the organist at Divi Blasii church for a year in 1707, it...

Schloss Neideck, Ohrdruf

Schloss Neideck, Ohrdruf

This morning I played at the service in St Trinitatis. After this and before leaving for Gotha I decided to take a quick look at the castle, Schloss Neideck. The first image shows what I saw as I approached the castle - in the background you can see the tower of St...

Arriving in Ohrdruf

Arriving in Ohrdruf

Yesterday my bike and I took a train from Köln to Arnstadt because Ohrdruf doesn't have a station. That meant cycling to Ohrdruf today in order to actually begin Bach's Quest with the live stream tonight and onward journey tomorrow. So in a way it was a bit of a dress...

essential reading

essential reading

  Double Bach here! These two books were where I started my Bach's Quest: Johann Sebastian Bach: The Learned Musician by Christoph Wolff, and Music in the Castle of Heaven by John Eliot Gardiner. I was particularly interested in Bach's early years, the kind of...